The material choices in a varsity jacket determine how it looks, how long it lasts, how it ages, and how demanding it is to maintain. This guide focuses specifically on the fabric and material options available for different parts of the jacket.
Body Fabrics
Melton wool is the most traditional body fabric for varsity jackets. It is a tightly woven, heavily fulled wool that has been processed to create a dense, smooth surface with minimal visible weave structure. Melton is thick, has natural wind resistance, and drapes with a structured weight that gives the jacket its characteristic silhouette. It accepts embroidery, felt appliques, and chenille patches cleanly.
Wool-polyester blends (typically 65% wool, 35% polyester, or similar) offer a very similar look and feel to pure melton at a lower material cost. The polyester content adds strength and reduces the risk of moth damage. Most school varsity jackets today use a wool blend rather than pure wool.
All-polyester melton-look fabrics mimic the texture of melton wool using synthetic fibers. They are machine washable, significantly less expensive, and very durable, but they do not have the same natural hand or longevity as wool-blend options.
Sleeve Materials
Genuine leather sleeves are the most traditional option. Top-grain leather is durable, develops a patina over time, and feels premium. It requires conditioning to prevent cracking and should not be submerged in water. Split leather is less expensive and less durable than top-grain.
Faux leather (PU or PVC synthetic leather) is the most common sleeve material in school and team jackets today. It closely approximates the look of real leather, is easier to care for, resists moisture better, and costs significantly less. Quality varies: higher-end faux leather has a more natural grain pattern and is less likely to crack or peel over time.
Lining Materials
Satin lining is smooth against base layers and provides a finished interior. Quilted lining adds thermal value. Knit lining at the cuffs and collar contributes to the ribbed trim look. See also: caring for team jackets.